Mr R.W.H. Jones - the same architect who designed Teynham
House and Curzon House, drew up plans for the Lido and the
Ocean Hotel. Charles Nevill designed the Lido as a 14ft by
66ft pool containing over 300,000 gallons of water and accommodating
500 bathers to be open daily during the summer season with
the admission at 6d. Lunch or tea was served on the terraces
or sun lounge around the pool with reclining chairs and sun
umbrellas. There was much in the mainstream of Lido design
in the 1930's but the Lido seems to have been very highly
regarded. In October 1938 in the 'Building' journal a writer
pronounced 'it is certainly one of the really first-class
designs of it's type in the country' Jones was undoubtedly
influenced by the work of architect Eric Mendelsohn who was
the architect of the De La Warr Pavilion at Bexhill-on-Sea,
built in 1935 - where Charles Neville had married his wife
Dorothy.
Above - Saltdean Lido in it's heyday - the sign
on the Lido says 'Grand Gala Day 27th August' and the year
is almost surely 1938
Left - A rare picture of the boating pool
Children had a separate paddling pool and there was also
a boating lake with paddle boats. It was floodlit at night.
The reinforced concrete steps of the three tier diving board
have now disappeared along with the boating pool to the
rear - where the community centre and library is situated
today. There was also an elaborate rock garden on the west
embankment. Charles Neville looked ahead with a car park
planned for 1000 cars with regular buses and shops close
by. It was soon a popular venue.
OCEAN HOTEL Left - Advert for Saltdean homes from the Estate Company
in the mid-Thirties
Saltdean homes could now be bought from the Saltdean Estate
Company in 10 different designs, four with garage, could be
bought for for £375-£571. From December 1931,
103 buildings in Saltdean had grown to 802 by February 1938.
The Mount Estate was a major development of the 1930's and
covered a substantial area of downland on the east side of
of Saltdean Vale. There was some worry about over- development
from the residents association and the Brighton Gazette of
26th March 1938 recorded Saltdean's fear of becoming a 'bungalow
town'.
The Saltdean Residents and Property-Owners Association eventually
accepted the new development and campaigned for better amenities
from the Estate Company for example a telephone kiosk, better
lighting and proper roads. The Saltdean Residents and Property-Owners
Association S.R.P.O.A. proved to be quite a thorn in the side
of the Estate Company and even requested that building plans
were passed by them by the Estate Co. One constant topic on
the agenda of meetings was the subject of roads, especially
excessive parking on the coast road and the poor quality of
the inland roads. One by one the roads were taken over by
Brighton Corporation and they did excellent work in securing
lighting and drainage. Regarding local Government representation,
West Saltdean remains under the control of three Rottingdean
councillors, however three East Saltdean members were put
on Telscombe Town Council at the first attempt.
Above - The Ocean Hotel on the 30 July 1938,
one week after grand opening
In 1937 the Coastguard cottages were demolished to build
a luxury block of flats - Curzon House - set back as the
lady who ran the Post Office and General Store would not
sell. The flats were built round her and Teynham House built
as planned. The flat were let by the Saltdean Estate Company
to approved tenants only. They were single roomed with bathroom
and kitchen for £65 p.a. and £100 for three
rooms, bathroom and kitchen. The kitchens were designed
to be labour saving and modern with a fridge, and the bathrooms
were luxuriously tiled with a shower. The living rooms had
coal fireplaces in addition to central heating and the entrance
halls had uniformed porters and a caretaker who was always
available. With flats having balconies overlooking the sea
or the downs and there was also a roof garden for all. The
Comus Club (named after the Greek goddess of fun and laughter)
was run and managed for Neville by a Mr Halliwell. During
the war all service staff at the Ocean Hotel were made honorary
members of the club.
In 1935 a 4 1/2 acre site was bought and leased to Ocean
Hotels Ltd - an arm of Saltdean Estate Company. By early
March 1938 the shell of the building had been erected and
promoters had spent over £200,000 on the hotel. The
building could house 600 guests on special terms, fully
inclusive, at 31/2 guineas with cheaper rates for long-stay
guests.
The 426 bedrooms had central heating, hot and cold water
and the hotel contained a very fashionable American-style
bar. The restaurant in the hotel was 120 ft by 50 ft and
promoters even organised an orchard at the end of Saltdean
Vale to provide fresh fruit in season.
DURING THE WAR
There was a Dinner Dance on Saturdays and a petrol and garage
also owned by Neville had space for 150 cars and beams on
the garage roof appeared to span 100ft without columns due
to clever construction and design on the architects part..
Servants could occupy visitors rooms at the same charge as
guests and all principal rooms faced towards the south.
The especially constructed ballroom floor was claimed to
be the finest in England. The hotel also had a billiards
room, exercise room, childrens nursery, swimming pool and
paddling pool. It as also open to non-residents for meals
and it was used by the residents association. A 1939 dinner
dance was held there not long before the outbreak of war
which was a great success and it was used again as a venue.
During the Second World War there was a great sense of
community in Saltdean. Saltdean's War Savings Committee
was appointed and by 1941 over 12 street groups had collected
over £4000 for the war effort - their centre of activities
being a flat in Saltdean Court, Longridge Avenue. The war
bought Saltdean's development to a virtual halt and the
last meeting of the Residents Association took place on
30 August 194, where the minutes rather dramatically were
broken off mid-sentence. The next meeting of the Residents
Association was not to be until the 5th October 1945. In
1940 the Secretary of the Residents Association wrote to
the Estate Company to only to be told that there was as
little as 12s 11d in the bank.
Although an important role was played by the Housewives
Home Guard led by Mrs Beckwith, a major effort in the community
was undergone by the Saltdean Fellowship (formerly the Saltdean
Self-Help Fellowship), founded by Mrs M Fletcher and Mrs
K Shaw in 1940 after Mrs Shaw gave first aid lectures to
local residents in her own home.. The stated objects of
the Fellowship were in tending to casualties, helping the
homeless destitute through war and organizing first aid
and home nursing classes and also organising working parties
for providing required items by the fighting and mercantile
services, providing social functions and to generally promote
a sense of community spirit.
The first meeting, held at the Saltdean Club above the
Estate Office, had over 70 attend and was opened by an address
from Miss Gore Brown, President of the British Red Cross
Society (Brighton, Hove and Preston Division). At another
meeting Alderman Miss Margaret Hardy MBE JP spoke and mention
of this was made both in the local and national press. It
was open to ladies and gentleman, Saltdean residents or
those interested in Saltdean, at an annual subscription
of a shilling a year. It's first aid point of operation
was a lock-up shop in Longridge Avenue which lasted 4 1/2
years and by June 1941, 92 patients had been treated and
188 dressings made on military and civilian casualties earning
them official recognition from the Ministry of Health. Most
Fellowship meetings were held at 'Bedford', now 'Bethany'
in Arundel Drive West, home of Mrs Hill, and over 5 years
mountains of garments (1626 woolens alone) were sent for
dispatch to the services, Merchant Navy and the blitzed
people of Britain and Russia. On 25 November 1940, Miss
Margaret Hardy returned to 'Bedford' to a sale of household
goods, garments and fancy leather work which sold so quickly
that when a reporter from the Herald arrived halfway through
the day most of the goods had gone. This raised a huge £56
for deserving causes.
During the Second World War the Ocean Hotel was occupied
for a short time by the Ladies A.T.S and then taken over
by the Auxiliary Fire Service. Protection against fire was
as equally important as air-raid precautions, and a team
of five fiull-time fire wardens were appointed and occupied
an empty house in Westmeston Avenue. The Fire Service at
the Ocean Hotel took over the Lido as a water tank and erected
a tower in the Oval park for climbing practice and exercise
drills. The Ocean garage became an agricultural machinery
and repair shop.
The Ocean Hotel was officially opened as a fire service
college on 10th October 1941 and was a major news event
at the time. It was intended to operate for the higher training
of senior officers and instruction of junior officers and
other ranks. Herbert Morrision - at the time Home Secretary
- opened the College and he made the point that fire services
had increased tenfold and maybe even twenty-fold since the
start of the war. The number instructed at any one time
was around 200 and later in the war the college also admitted
women. It also had the facilities of a chemist, a fully
equipped laboratory and control rooms. The Ocean Hotel was
used throughout the War and it was not until 1952 that the
lease of the hotel was taken over by a subsidiary of Butlins
Ltd.
Precautions were taken in Saltdean against enemy aircraft
and on the golf course a light AA gun was established. On
Telscombe Tye 15 foot high steel poles were erected to deter
the landing of enemy aircraft. The radar station on the
Tye was not always very reliable as aircraft would often
fly below cliff level. Dog fights would take place over
the sea especially early on and local resident Gordon Tucknott
recalls a spitfire bought down on the Telscombe side of
the Tye in 1942. At 1.35 pm on 25 October 1940 an ME 109
was bought down to the rear of Saltdean although the pilot
escaped unscathed. He was a 19 year old pilot called Karl
Raisinger, who was escorted to Brighton Police Station and
interrogated before being sent to Chichester Barracks. Interestingly
in July 1979 he returned to Brighton and reported that 'it
is marvellous to come back to Brighton'.
History of the Fire Service College
The Fire Brigades Act 1938 authorized the establishment
of a training centre for special fire service courses. A
site at Watford (now the Building Research Establishment)
was identified by the Home Office, but with the outbreak
of World War Two a much larger site was needed. The Ocean
Hotel at Saltdean, near Brighton, had ample sleeping and
catering facilities and the War Office provided it as the
National Fire Service Training College. The Hotel also had
a large swimming pool that was ideal for pump drills. The
first students arrived on 29th September 1941 and the Home
Secretary formally opened the College on 10th October 1941.
The College trained firemen and women throughout WW2 in
all aspects of the National Fire Service.
The National Fire Service Training College
at Saltdean
The Fire Services Act 1947 denationalized the fire service,
but the national training centre was retained. The NFS College
at Saltdean became the Fire Service College, and the Fire
Service Board was established to run it for the Home Department.
The Ocean Hotel was soon found to be too large for peacetime
training needs and, in 1949, the Fire Service College moved
to Wotton House, near Dorking, Surrey.
ENEMY PLANES Left - The ME 109 was taken down behind
Saltdean on 25 October 1940.
On the 10 February 1943 at 14.30 hours a spectacular air
crash occurred on misty downland behind Saltdean just north
of Longridge Avenue which was a Dornier DO 217 from Kampfgeschwader
40, bought down by AA fire after bombing Whitehawk Estate
and the coast road. It was forced to make an emergency landing
but failed and the wreckage was scattered over a wide area.
The four crew members were later buried at Bear Road cemetery.
Another Dornier raid killed a policeman at Rottingdean crossroads,
burnt the Rottingdean Vicarage to the ground and a bomb
landed on St Aubyn's fields. Saltdean Fellowship's minutes
of 6th February 1943 state that £10 was paid to a
Mrs Stone of Saltdean Mount after her husband was killed
in 'the raid at Rottingdean'.
Many Saltdean men were out on active service during the
war, and most of the troops stationed in the area came from
Britain and Canada. There was also a London and Scottish
contingent here for a short time who were reviewed in Rottingdean
by the Queen - their colonel-in-chief. The Hampshire's performed
a variety of exercises on land behind Saltdean. Billets
and social amenities had to be found and Saltdean Fellowship's
minutes of 23 May 1941 record that 'entertainment should
be given by Fellowship members for Pioneer Corps' They mostly
integrated into the local community but sadly several important
local landmarks such as Harvey's Cross, Pickers Hill Cottage,
High Barn and buildings in Balsdean were all lost to target
practice. The Colonel in charge kindly allowed local residents
onto the beaches, which were out of bounds to local residents,
if they left by 6 pm. A few spoiled the privilege and this
was withdrawn. .
Scores of bombs were jettisoned locally, many unexploded,
and one fell at the eastern end of Rodmell Avenue. Most
fell on open farmland and there were very few casualties.
As late as 1957 a mine containing 500 tonnes of explosive
was found by Robert Marchini of the Whitecliff's Cafe on
the beach.
REFUGEES
The Herald reported on week ending 23 August 1941 that 'Saltdean
Officer commended - Bravery at Sea'. This was Merchant Navy
Officer Wilfrid Orde of Rodmell Avenue who was officially
commended for valiant conduct when encountering enemy forces.
A victim of the war was Junior Engineer Clarence Richard Carter
of Oaklands Avenue and Col. Frank Black, a prominent member
of the Residents Association. At the associations AGM at the
Fire College on 26 June 1946 a minutes silence was held in
respect for him.
Another interesting example of Saltdean's community spirit
was the use of the White House from December 1944 to spring
1945 as a rest centre for departing refugees. Mrs Muriel
Sibley of the Fellowship undertook the organisation of this
with some help from the W.V.S. All the refugees were French,
which she helped look after travelling from London on their
way to Newhaven. Every social class was represented from
diplomats to peasants.
The Fellowship itself carried on valiantly throughout the
war, earning a gesture of appreciation from a Mr Wallis
who on hearing that 'Bedford' was due to be sold, bought
it and leant to them for the duration. The first aid point
eventually became a sort of social service centre serving
orange juice to local children. At the end of 1944 it was
agreed to use up existing funds in a 'Welcome Home Fund',
open to applicants who were on active service when hostilities
ceased and resided between Cranleigh Avenue and Ashurst
Avenue. A total of 47 applicants were sent a letter of appreciation
and a cheque for £11 2s 6d out of a total fund of
£522 19s 6d.
During the war, Charles Neville and his sons stayed in
Canada, where they were when war broke out. Their contribution
to the war effort was largely though business efforts due
to restrictions by illness on serving actively. One son
was involved in cinnabar (mercury) mining and the other
in lumber.
So it seems that Saltdean can be proud of it's community
spirit during the War. After the war it was to be the reopening
of Butlins and the Lido and the return of the ever-stronger
Residents Association.