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The Grand Ocean is not the only hotel being refurbished
Thanks as always Anna for a brilliant article!
It’s Magic! – 01.08.07
It all started with an e-mail my husband received which he forwarded to me at work on 18th June [fittingly my fathers’ 92nd birthday]. This particular e-mail had been sent to him by your own Saltdean web-mistress Nikki Fabry – I get a bit confused here as I always correspond with Nikki under my own e-mail address, so the first piece of magic was, that the information her e-mail contained did reach its eventual destination – me! Nikki, in turn, had been the recipient of the original message from Gary Falkingham of Urban Splash [see Visitor article below this update] who wanted to let her know that the missing banister was “missing no more!” Mysteriously he added that he would give Nikki the full story if she rang him.

Knowing I would be interested in the full story, Nikki left me to ring Gary. Well, you can imagine the introductory conversation can’t you – me having to explain that I’m the one who writes the updates on the Saltdean site and that Nikki had sent his e-mail to my husband who had forwarded it to me at work and here I was – waiting for the full story. I’m pretty certain, after getting that lot down the telephone mouthpiece Gary wasn’t thinking it was magic, more like a Malfoy curse [yes, OK I admit it, I am finally reading the Harry Potter series now that the books are all published.]

Anyway … once he’d got over the shock Gary told me pretty much the same as has been chronicled in the Visitor article – but the story was slightly more tense before its happy ending. Gary did indeed spot the couple on site and, worried for their safety, investigated why they were there. At first the couple were a little reticent but finally told him that they thought they had something that belonged to the hotel and would he like it back. Gary asked them what they had, but they intimated that they weren’t exactly sure what the item was. He asked them to describe it and to his amazement was able to visualise the banister/staircase – which he had just read about the day before on ….. this web-site! Remember, you read it here first! Magic or coincidence or just spooky? Sure enough, the following day the couple returned and presented Gary with the whole piece as seen in the Visitor article. They didn’t seem to want any thanks or recognition for its return and disappeared as mysteriously as they had arrived. Now that is magic! In the meantime, the reporter from the Visitor wanted to know more about the Ocean – neither he nor Gary were aware of its existence – so for the first time I’ve been able to offer reciprocal information and the Ocean and this web-site have now been brought to the attention of the Visitor readers.
I had to laugh when I read that this particular artefact was on Interpols’ missing antiques list – fancy, little old me helping to track it down – definitely a touch of magic there. I’ve done a search on the Interpol site but haven’t yet found the page with the information on – if I find it before this is published, I’ll add it to the article.
What I also did as a result of this “adventure” was to make a subscription to the Visitor as things really do seem to be moving with the Midland now and it is great to follow the progress but there’s nothing like experiencing the changes so ….

Last week we went to Morecambe to see how things were and maybe to get a look at the banister itself, although you would have expected it to be securely chained under lock and key and monitored by an electronic eye. We got to the Midland in the early afternoon and the sky was starting to look a little troubled [we’d had about 3 dry days up to that point] which did not augur well. The first and most obvious difference is the fact that there is nowhere near as much scaffolding and the blue mesh which had covered it previously had all but disappeared. The building itself is no longer peeling but has a new smooth matt-looking exterior [the polishing “finish” to this rendering is still to come]. We were met by Gary himself who explained that they had already had visiting dignitaries that morning and so at best he could only offer a whistle-stop tour – as that was more than we hoped for we accepted.
Firstly I asked to see the recovered treasure – Gary looked around the office and pointed to an empty spot saying that it was usually there – well not anymore. He went off to the Conference Room and came back empty handed – eventually it was found there, it had magicked itself back … OK, so that’s a bit of poetic licence.
In the Conference Room we were shown groundplans of the hotel – having studied architecture as part of my History of Art degree, I appreciate the work that goes into planning a structure. Groundplans and elevations were a chore to learn, but this day I was glad I had paid attention! The basement [the Tardis of the previous article] will be a high percentage of utility and kitchen amenities – but there is also a generous proportion set aside for relaxation and beauty! The ground floor will retain much of its original purpose – a lobby, dining facilities and two conference facilities instead of one as previously. A new sun terrace will be introduced along the sea-facing side of the hotel but this one will be more in keeping with the style of the hotel as opposed to being “lopped on” as the preceding version had been sometime during the hotels chequered post-war history.

Floors 1 and 2 will house en-suite bedrooms and there is the possibility that the two bedrooms on the first floor in the rounded end [on your left as you look at the front entrance] might be “themed” to the 1930s.
Then there is the roof which will have special suites with all-glass walls overlooking the bay which has magnificent sunsets and flanking the suites will be decking with loungers.
We donned hard hats, high conspicuity waistcoats and reinforced boots and set off to have a look. Not much seems to have happened on the ground floor since our last visit, but great strides have been made in lifting off the wall and saving the Eric Gill “pictorial relief” of North-West England [see my article dated 04.03.06 below for a picture – just below picture of the missing banister]. A specialist had been called in and with the assistance of a special preserving glue and complicated interior scaffolding the mural is safely behind what looks like wads of lagging or cotton wool. The plan is to have the Gills “Odysseus Welcomed from the Sea by Nausica” stone relief positioned back in its original place in the lobby and the mural to be placed on the reverse of the wall supporting the sculpture. This weeks’ Visitor has covered the progress of this part of the restoration.

The first floor is where the greatest progress is visible – no longer the gaping shell that hosted pigeon racing of old – now there is structure. The walls to the eventual rooms are in place and a corridor is formed. Each of the rooms will be individual in shape, dimension and we are informed, colour schemes. This area is a positive hive of activity – men measuring, men carrying, men thinking and one man skimming inside one of the rooms – a positive art form – he is on stilts and gliding around as if surfing – an artist in his profession! The Visitor has a virtual tour of one of the “mocked” up rooms on its web-site. The latest state of the art ideas are being funnelled into these rooms to make the best possible use of the space available.
The second floor is still boarded up and no work in progress there other than to protect from the elements.
The roof has a skeleton scaffolding of the proposed new suites and up there, last week, the view was magnificent. The sea was moving apace but not roughly, boats of all shapes, sizes and colours were bobbing about and there was even a Big Wheel in the distance.

The Morecambe shrimps immortalised on the front of the tower of the hotel as Gills’ seahorses have had a face lift and once again look as they might have done when the hotel was first opened although the scaffolding in place currently doesn’t allow for a direct and individual shot of them. Areas of the rendering on the roof have had their final polish and gleam and glint as they pick up the rays from the sun now once again shining down …. all in all a really enormous piece of magic!
Thanks to my enthusiasm for the Midland and my updates on this site I’ve been approached by reFresh magazine to write a history of the hotel for their September issue which will run in tandem with an article by Urban Splash which I am very much looking forward to reading as I am sure their knowledge of the restoration will reveal all sorts of yummy new information! I keep telling you – it’s all magic!

Midland Hotel Article in The Visitor June 2007
Not quite dedicated to the Ocean but anyway....Thanks as always Anna

THE OCEAN HOTELS TWIN - THE MIDLAND
HOTEL
The Midland Hotel is really the TARDIS!
28th February 2007 - Thanks Anna!
Update on the progress of the Midland Hotel in Morecambe
as at 20th January 2007.
To all of you who are following my updates, a heartfelt
thank you, especially those of you who are feeling the demise
of your beautiful Ocean Hotel.
So why has the Midland become the or even a Tardis? Not
perhaps the copyrighted version : Time And Relative Dimension
(or Dimensions) In Space - but certainly an acronym of its
own which will follow on completion of this article as a
tribute to Urban Splash and all the hard work they have
put into saving the Midland.
On 20th January 2007 following the AGM of the Friends of
the Midland Hotel on the 19th, the membership was treated
to another "tour" as promised in the AGM notification.
This year my husband Andrew and I thought we would be smart
and wait in the car until just before the appointed hour
of 10.30am as we remember how cold it was last year and
even the promise of windows in the building did not fill
us with comforting thoughts of warmth! Hoist by our own
petard we discovered that the number of interested members
had grown sufficiently for the tour to be divided into two
groups only one of which could be on site at any one time
because there weren't enough hard hats and high conspicuity
vests for all of us to go in together. Group 2 sheltered
in the site "Conference Office" which had a table,
a few chairs, pictures on the wall and a small heater -
however, the door had to be kept open or we would otherwise
have suffocated - the office [a site box container] is probably
only designed to house a dozen people comfortably. [Fig
1 07] Many of the group kept popping outside to alleviate
the anticipation of the visit and there were loud cheers
when the first group appeared on the roof - cool, that meant
we were going to get up there after all! One of my dreams
is to hug one of the seahorses, but I don't think that is
going to happen any time soon if ever!
At last, Group 1 vacated the building in dribs and drabs
and handed over their hard hats and high conspicuity vests
without which we were not allowed into the building. As
I have walking difficulties, I tend to walk behind the crowd
rather than within it - two things happened as we started
to make our way forward - the wind, which was vicious that
day, blew the stick I was using to help me away from my
body so I had to adjust the way I used it. Just as I looked
up to see where everyone else was - I started seeing them
disappear - nothing unusual in that is there? They were
just entering the building - but where they? No-one was
going in through the front entrance, they had been led to
the right hand side of the building, lined up flush to the
wall and then single file down a slope which gave the optical
illusion of their bodies disappearing in layers until just
the heads, then the hard hats were left and then - nothing
spooky? As I followed somewhat slowly I arrived
at the optical illusion which is a concealed [delivery?]
sloped entrance into the basement - home of the "tank"
we had heard so much about the previous evening. By "tanking"
the basement Urban Splash will be able to move many of the
utilities down there which originally had taken up valuable
space on the ground floor. The Midland never possessed the
assets that the Ocean had, I refer of course, to that whole
underground structure which spread beneath the hotel and
added masses of room.
I still don't quite understand what the "tank"
is all about, however I can see that the basement has been
"lagged" - presumably the tank is not just a square
thing [I had visions of a floatation tank] placed somewhere
- I think the whole basement has become the tank and has
been waterproofed, shored up, framed and lagged and it now
looks like the interior of one of the versions of the original
Tardis when flown by the Dr Who incarnated as Tom Baker.
[Figs 3 + 4 07]
We then entered the main part of the ground floor via the
staircase that leads to the "Tea Room" lovingly
recreated for the episode of "Poirot" entitled
"Double Sin" - where the dastardly ladies con
is revealed! [Fig 5 07] This was an area we saw for the
first time last year but it is still amazing to think that
we were able to walk freely into the heart of the building!
The ground floor has not changed remarkably [it was already
all but gutted last year], but the big difference is that
there are windows in place as much to help with the weather
but also to keep the building and its contents dry. What
contents? There are sackfuls of render stacked in what was
once the reception area. [Fig 6 07] The other big difference
is the brieze block wall that has been especially put in
place to eventually receive the Eric Gill relief "Odysseus
being welcomed from the sea by Nausicaa" which is cut
in Perrycot Portland Stone. Assuming it can be moved the
other side of this specially built screen is intended to
be new housing for the pictorial map of North-West England
created by Gill and his son-in-law Denis Tegetmeier. Finally
and rather brutally, the whole of the central spiral staircase
has scaffolding to the top of the building for structural
work to the front tower - familiar to you all whether you
picture the Midland or the Ocean. [Fig 7 07] All the glass
has been removed from the tower - but will be replaced and
renovated to keep the spirit of the original.
The first floor has pipes in place and some form of racking
in place for whatever [possibly electricity] needs to be
put in place and a couple of rooms have been mocked up.
No more pigeon racing on this floor [see previous updates].
Then they let us out on the roof. By this time I was very
tired and stopped concentrating and my head met the scaffolding
- luckily for me, in between my head and the scaffolding
there was the hard hat - what an experience - no pain!
We came out onto the roof, the sun was shining brilliantly,
the wind was howling, let's call it what was - a gale and
sea was the angriest I have ever seen it - but as a landlubber
that probably doesn't say much! And then, there they were
- my beautiful Seahorses - really the Morecambe shrimp in
stylised disguise - cleaned up and looking perky - smiling
at the view below them! [Figs 08 and 09 07]
And so, the wait, any wait for the completion will be worth
it as Urban Splash weave their magic and the Midland's "Tantalisingly
Awaited Renaissance is Delivered In Style" - told you
- TARDIS!









Saltdean Update - Thursday, 24th August 2006
I have to admit that my pilgrimages to the Midland are
taken with a certain amount of trepidation and the awful
thought of what I might see when I get there. This is an
emotion deeply ingrained in me because of the years of deterioration
that the poor old lady has suffered. It doubly hurts to
know that the Ocean is also going through troubled times
- I wonder what it is about these two grand dames which
brings them such excessive highs and lows in their existence?
What I need to say early on in this article is that although
the Midland Hotel in Morecambe is currently completely covered
in scaffolding and blue mesh - Urban Splash are making great
inroads into preserving this timeless building. What made
me jump with joy was seeing men in hard hats working on
the second floor - I could just see them bobbing in and
out of the fire-escape side. I had a little chuckle as well
because one of the things everyone agreed was an appalling
eyesore was the rusting spiral fire escape which was removed
pdq by Urban Splash. However - if you have a look at the
photo you will see that a similar temporary structure has
had to be built to allow access. Don't get me wrong - nobody
misses that fire escape and I dare say under Health and
Safety it would have probably been condemned years ago,
but it just struck me as ironic that had it been in better
condition, it might just have proved to have one final positive
use before being consigned to oblivion!
Because I know that this time I would not be allowed onto
the site, I determined to see if I could find out anything
about the interior of the hotel as it was in its heyday
in the 1930s. I have lots of exterior postcards of the hotel
but nothing of the interior. I had rung Morecambe Library
[Reference Section] some time before going up to see if
they had anything I could browse through. The gentleman
I spoke to, whose name I discovered right at the end of
my visit was John, was as helpful as he could be over the
telephone telling me they had a "boxful" of cuttings
but not much of it was pre-war. I found that a little disappointing
- but a "boxful" of any stuff is better than nothing.
When I arrived at the library - which is modern, spacious,
airy and in the middle of the Arndale Centre, I was able
to find the Reference section easily as the library has
signs posted above each alcove indicating the contents of
the section - simplicity itself! Luckily, John was on duty
and remembered our conversation and led me to the "box"
which actually ended up being a "drawer-full"
but there it all was! As it happens there were quite a few
articles from illustrious magazines such as "Architecture
Illustrated" and "Architectural Review" from
1933 but they weren't really good enough to copy - but I
was pleased to see comprehensive coverage of the interior
as well as some groundplans, after all it was labelled as
the "First Art Deco Hotel" to be built. John left
me to look through the bounty having said that I could have
photocopies of anything in the folders. I only managed to
get through the "chronological" folder as I was
conscious of the time it would take and made copious notes
and references to later find books/magazines on the internet
and copies of articles from the British Library. John had
already been so accommodating that I didn't wish to take
up too much more of his time but I couldn't resist requesting
photocopies of more "locally valuable" items such
as a very well put together Kalber brochure and a menu supplied
specifically for the library staff.
It had been a pretty emotional two hours reading about
the opening of the hotel in 1933, its various threats of
closure, its abandonment, its failed projects and the arrival
of the knights in shining armour - Urban Splash. I also
chuckled over the promise of one previous owner to paint
the hotel in Mr Blobby colours - there was even a computer-graphic
of what it might look like - talk of a chequered history
- now, could that be an idea? Only kidding, but I did think
that maybe, when the hotel is up and running and glistening
in the sun - rather than let it lose its magic at night,
what if, like Buckingham Palace, on special occasions it
might sport a new livery - such as the Union Jack - or be
a different colour every so often - the 30s so loved their
rainbow effects
.. but that's just a personal dream
triggered by a rumour [not substantiated] that the Midland
was painted black during the war. Oh how I would have loved
to see that! But again, there is no photographic evidence
that I am aware of - unless anyone reading this would care
to prove me wrong? What colour was the Ocean during WWII
- was it camouflaged by the Fire Brigade?
Having emerged from the library with lots of "lubbly-jubbly"
- I found my husband and sister, we swept past the majestic
and mysterious [behind her veils] old lady and headed off
for a long and leisurely lunch in Bolton-le-Sands before
making our way home.
Apart from updating you, my dear friends at Saltdean, I
have also updated two leading Midland fans, Tony Porter
and his wife Beatrice. You will already know from previous
articles that Tony and Beatrice have a wealth of knowledge
of all things Art Deco and were instrumental in buying,
saving and breathing life back into Burgh Island - beautifully
described in "The Great White Palace". Although
Andrew and I have known Tony for many years, it is only
recently that we have become more than acquaintances and
because of this I finally plucked up the courage to ask
Tony and Bea to sign their book for me this year despite
the fact that I had owned it since 2002. I was such a keen
fan of Burgh that I had the book on pre-order at Amazon!
If you would like to know more please visit : www.tonyporter.co.uk/welcome.htm
Tony is immensely interested in the progress at the Midland
and I was happy to update him as Morecambe is a little easier
to reach from Nottingham than from Devon.
And so, here I am again back at my computer where I have
just been surfing and discovered that there is a "site
visit" to the Midland on 20th September, guess who
is booking her annual leave right now! In the meantime,
courtesy of the internet and a telephone call, I have already
found one book and one back issue of a magazine featuring
the Midland and "Signpost" have promised a copy
of a review in their magazine if they are ensured a credit
for its use.
Other links you might find interesting with news of the
Midland - the Urban Splash link is beautiful and the bay-online
link is packed with historical and current goodies:




http://www.midlandhotelmorecambe.co.uk/midlandhotel.html
http://www.bay-online.co.uk/mmidlandhotel.htm
UPDATE 4th February 2006 from Anna Ludlow

We received our invitations to the Annual General Meeting
in good time, as always, from our considerate Committee
who are fully aware that many of the "Friends of the
Midland" are from outside of the Lancashire area -
demonstrating just how far the passion, to save this building,
has spread.
Not only did they issue an invitation for us to attend
and go through the usual mundane stuff - but they promised
us a presentation from Urban Splash and then
. they
promised we would be taken around the building the following
day so that we could see for ourselves what Urban Splash
had accomplished so far!

(Picture 1 - Billboard Fence Urban) How generous is that?
An established and well-known company, taking the time to
take into consideration what a few aficionados have to say,
understanding and joining in their passion and letting them
participate in the great renaissance - how cool is that?
I applaud Urban Splash for their enlightened view and approachable
disposition - an honest company who have no fear of criticism.
All this and they went in search of the funding to make
this a reality in the first place - I really do believe
they deserve a big hand.
And so to the visit - on Thursday, 3rd February, my husband
Andrew and I set off to Morecambe from Nottingham - a reasonable
journey of nearly 200 miles, so we were not really just
county-hopping, it was a bit of a trek. The weather and
level of traffic proved auspicious and we arrived at our
destination not long after midday. We drove past the beloved
derelict happy to see it was clothed in a substantive protective
barrier and even happier to confirm that it was really still
there!

(Picture 2 - Billboard and Tower) We visited a shop or
two, lunched and settled into our pub accommodation in a
village slightly north of Morecambe (unfortunately we weren't
able to book any rooms at the Midland!!). We thought we
had arrived at the AGM in a timely fashion - well, we had
but so had about 70 others - the place was teeming with
people - what a turnout! True to the Agenda - we were given
a presentation by Urban Splash who showed several examples
of their work - it is always a treat to see actual "before
and after" pictures - and an insight into how they
envisaged the Midland would look on completion. The presentation
did not just consist of pictures - we heard how the sites
were acquired and why, what opposition had been met, what
challenges had been offered - it seems that if there is
passion and belief in the impossible Urban Splash seem to
want the job! Our presenter announced a couple of deviations
from the original ideas that had been necessitated but nothing
that could worry us. In conclusion we were reminded that
there would be a visit the following morning. Following
on, after a coffee break, the AGM moved along apace with
no great changes ensuing.
Saturday - we started gathering at 10.30am for the promised
11.00am tour. Present, as he had been at the AGM, a distinguished
and very knowledgeable "Friend of the Midland"
- one Tony Porter who had, together with his wife, almost
single-handedly saved and restored the Burgh Island Hotel
in Bigbury, Devon.

Picture 3 - Tony Outside) I know Tony, so he won't mind
me saying that when Andrew and I first stayed at the Midland
(in 1999) we noticed there was a "Porters' Lodge"
by the lift and we joked that it was typical of Tony's farsightedness
that had already "bagged himself a pitch".
We repeated the story to him when we entered the old derelict
and had to show him the spot as everything was gutted and
Tony had not seen the porters lodge when it was in situ.
We were escorted into the building - it really is now just
a complete shell - probably not unlike when it was first
built before the finishing touches were added. We could
see the whole structure - Bill Maynard from Urban Splash
told us that once he had given his talk we could have a
free run of the building except the roof as it was just
too windy. Bill had time throughout to answer collective
and individual questions - he told us that although they
had saved everything they needed to save that had been stripped
- one end piece of the banister was missing - they would
dearly love its return. I have a picture of the missing
piece, which I am sharing with you,

(Picture 4 - Stolen Bannister) should they need to reproduce.
So off we went to have a look at everything - to the left
of the staircase (remember everything in the Midland is
the reverse of the Ocean - our staircase is on the left
as you walk in and yours is on the right) was the corridor
that led to the porters Lodge, the lift, the Conference
Room which housed the mural of the coastline

(Picture 5 - Map) and the Eric Gill sculpture and the loos.
Everywhere was open except for the load-bearing columns
- but we were able to walk in and out of the "rooms".
We then headed in the other direction going passed the entrance
lobby and the reception desk, passed the dining room and
kitchens (I know all this because I'd been there previously)
and then we came to a bit that we had, in all the time of
coming, never been able to access - the Rotunda café.
We headed passed the kitchens and into a space which had
a very narrow staircase following the line of what looked
like a colonnade but was in fact the café. We entered
the café which is a perfect circle and still has
the remnants of the murals painted for the episode of Poirot
entitled "Double Sin."

(Picture 6 - Rotunda Mural) Urban Splash is still researching
what was there originally. There are lots of little anomalies
- like, what colour were the window frames originally -
where they white or that eau-de-nil-like colour so beloved
of Art Deco architecture. The debate is growing - they might
have been white on the inside and the eau-de-nil-like colour
on the exterior, but the frames show white beneath the colour
also. Later on, some of us leaned over to have a look at
the basement window frames (all the top ones having been
removed by now) and found traces of royal blue paint!!!!!!
Anyway, after we had gorged ourselves on the rotunda, for
me a special treat and privilege as I had managed to get
into nearly every other nook and cranny on two previous
visits - I've even seen bits of Burgh Island I probably
shouldn't have - we went upstairs. In many ways that was
worse because both floors are identical in shape, two long
curved empty corridors. Again, it was a treat to see the
structure of one of rooms in the bay tower to the left (as
you look at the building from the front - a wing that is
not replicated in the Ocean) and it was so sad to be able
to stand on the exact spot that had been our "suite"
on the two occasions we had stayed there!

Several pigeons accompanied us on our tour, they seem to
have found several places to enter and egress - but then
they got tired of us in their "birddom" and started
to have a Formula 1 style race - but they were very good,
they stayed on the inside of the cordoned area and we stayed
on our side. It was remarkably chilly in that building and
it felt warm as we stepped out and continued taking photos
to record the unique event of which we had become a part.
Another puzzle is the composition of the exterior rendering
of the building - we know that it has been described as
sparkling with blue glints in the sun and Urban Splash have
rediscovered the original ingredients used - but what is
the magic ingredient that makes it work - was it even meant
to do that in the first place?

My question is about the Seahorses at the front - original
postcards intimate that they were white, but presumably
not rendered - currently they appear to be a cross between
brown and purple-grey (a sort of taupe) and the architects
vision has them a purple colour to stand out against the
brilliant white - my own preference would be to see them
white again as I believe they were originally - I love those
seahorses and was not a little spooked when I noticed, at
our beloved Ocean, that the entrance mirrors carried a Seahorse
design! (Picture 7 - Seahorse 4)

UPDATE MARCH 2005 from Anna Ludlow
As a follow-up to my previous lengthy article which was
all about "our Midland" - I have to say that I
am feeling rather territorial about the "Ocean"
now as well due to all sorts of factors.
Principally because I've made two new friends as a result
of my visit to the hotel. Firstly the owner of the Saltdean.Info
web-site who allows me to indulge in my pet projects and
Douglas d'Enno author and resident of Saltdean who encouraged
my interest in the Midland's "twin." You cannot
imagine how sad I am that both hotels can't function successfully
at the same time - as it would have been wonderful for me,
and I am sure all others interested in this phenomenon -
to have the odd weekend in Morecambe at the Midland then
counter it with a weekend in Saltdean at the Ocean (and
vice versa). For a Midlander - the journey lengths aren't
that much different. (By the way - don't believe all the
stories about Nottingham being the gun capital of Europe
or that we, its residents care about the big "N"
- we have Robin Hood and we will continue to cherish him!).
Anyway - I digress - so having seen the Midland degrade
into dereliction whilst staying at the delightful pink and
plum palace that is the Ocean, their fortunes are now reversed.
The Ocean to be converted and the Midland to be saved and
hopefully become a thriving business once again.
There are assurances and finances by Urban Splash (web-link
to follow) which are solid and hopeful - unlike Kalber Leisure
who even up until recently had the Midland Hotel as a flag-ship
project on their web-site.
The Friends of the Midland held their 5th or 6th Annual
General Meeting on the 4th of February 2005 - 26 members
from all parts of the UK attended and 15 sent apologies.
Bill Maynard, Director Of Development at Urban Splash attended
and talked to the members - this was such an encouraging
moment!
To view the magnificent projected plans that Urban Splash
have visit their web-site via this link :
http://www.urbansplash.co.uk/us.php?action=linkToPipeline&arg_1=aboutus_fp
Select the "Home" tab, then Image Library, then
find the Midland Hotel link on the drop-down menu and select
"search" - this will show you several images of
how the restoration will look.
In the meantime - the Midland is finally properly protected
with security boarding with information and pictures displayed
on the protective barriers - a real commitment to this magnificent
project!
I have to say - having been a staunch Midland fan - I am
now torn between the two and hope both of them survive.
Wonderful article kindly passed on by Douglas d'
Enno. Written by Anna - a great fan of the Midland Hotel
The Grand Ocean's 'twin' - it describes her stay at the
Grand Ocean
The Grand Ocean Hotel, Saltdean (nr. Brighton) (have a look
at the original article and for a website link to their
hotel here and http://www.midlandhotel.org
- it's near the top if you scroll down!)
When I mentioned, in passing, to Barry Guise (Friends of
the Midland) that my husband and I were going to stay at
the Ocean, he asked me if I would like to write an article
for the Newsletter about our stay. I have to admit that
I was a little surprised and not a little honoured to be
trusted with such an undertaking. I was also a little worried
as the content of the Newsletter, is to my mind of such
incredibly high standard that I should hate to let the side
down, but I'm giving it my best shot. I also doubted that
the Newsletter should contain information about a hotel
that has nothing to do with the Midland and Morecambe, but
then remembered that the Newsletter often carried other
Art Deco related articles, so feel more comfortable tackling
what I hope be appropriate to the Newsletter standard.
My first thought when asked to write this, was that I really
must find out more about the background and history of the
Morecambe Midland's "twin." I racked my brains
for a clue and remembered from our "Friends" weekend
all those years ago that someone had mentioned that the
Ocean was a Butlin's hotel. How and in what context I cannot
remember, but I think it was during the slide-show. So off
I went for a "surf"
I had by this time
bought John Hinde's book of Butlin's photographs and was
deeply disappointed that it contained only photographs of
the campsites and not the hotels. Google directed me to
a historic Butlin's site where people are encouraged to
share their experiences and reminiscences - here I found
a wealth of Art Deco frontages but nothing resembling hotels.
Sneakily on the right hand side of the page there was a
link to Butlin's Hotels - as the page loaded, so the sight
of the Ocean materialised. From here the link took me to
a booking facility and that is how I decided to book a weekend
away for my husband's birthday (yes, you are right, I didn't
consult him - it was going to be a surprise). I checked
his diary, there were no commitments and Notts. County were
playing away, so I felt fairly safe.
I was feeling pretty confident now and explored further
on the Net - I found a wonderful website where someone,
who is obviously interested in Art Deco, had loaded some
excellent pictures of the Ocean and I contacted the owner.
He was unable to tell me anything about the hotel other
than it was owned by Butlin's and was still a going concern
- that much I knew already. What I hadn't spotted however,
was that it was no longer, in actual fact, owned by Butlin's
(more later).
I then decided to start tracking the history of the place
- I started in my favourite place - www.ebay.com - you can
find anything in there. I found postcards - lots of them
for sale - those that I didn't win I downloaded pictures
of. I contacted all the sellers asking what they knew -
very little beyond the fact that they were all Butlin's
buffs and this was a Butlin's hotel. (By the way - I sold
the John Hinde book!).
Next stop was to see if Saltdean had any web-pages and
here the adventure really started. Saltdean is very proud
of its heritage and has a very comprehensive website which
is worth visiting www.saltdean.info.
At this point, before I go any further - as we were leaving
the Ocean I asked the receptionist if there was any historical
information she could give me - it was at this point that
I found out that the hotel had been bought by the Grand
Leisure Hotel group about 5 years previously, that it had
been a Butlin's hotel (yawn!) but that there was a book
called "The Saltdean Story" that had all the historical
information in it. When I got home I looked the book up,
got its ISBN number and the name of the author. Another
link brought me, amazingly, a contact address for Mr. Douglas
d'Enno (you'll see his name a lot on the Saltdean website)
whom I emailed immediately. Within half an hour Mr. d'Enno
had not only responded but sent me the full chapter of his
book (which sadly, is now out of print
.. but a sequel
is being planned and the Ocean will feature!) At this point,
I think it appropriate to mention that the majority of the
archival facts are from Mr. d'Enno's book and he has kindly
given me permission to reproduce this information for the
purpose of this article. All quotations in inverted commas
will be Mr. d'Enno's - the other sources I am using are
the Saltdean website and Brighton and Hove Property Area
Guide for Saltdean.
In 1938 "The four and a quarter acre site was bought
by a company known as Land and Freeholds Ltd. And the lease
was granted to Ocean Hotels Ltd,, which was an arm of the
Saltdean Estate Company. Several months after the hotel
was opened, however, the ownership of the land was transferred
to the Investment and First Mortgage Co. Ltd. Of Pall Mall,
London.
Early in March 1938, when the shell of the huge building
had already been erected, an application for a provisional
licence was considered at Brighton Licensing Sessions. Supporting
the application was Mr. Erik Rhodes, of Messr. Jolly &
Rhodes; he pointed out that the scheme was already nearing
completion, with the opening scheduled for that coming July.
He referred to the rapid development, particularly in recent
years, by the estate company, of Saltdean as a resort offering
every attraction and amenity. The promoters had confidently
expended £200,000 on the Ocean Hotel venture, and
the accommodation provided would make up for the shortage
of high-class accommodation in the district. At the session,
attention was drawn to the rapid pace at which residential
development had been taking place - whereas in December
1931 there had only been 103 buildings on the Estate, there
were 802 by the end of February 1938. It was intended that
the hotel should have 426 bedrooms. A description was given
of the Oceans principal features: the main building was
shaped like a crescent and contained the whole of the public
rooms and some of the bedrooms, and there were six other
buildings which contained bedrooms and bathrooms only. The
buildings were so constructed that all the principal rooms
faced in a southerly direction, and there was a swimming
pool and paddling pool. The restaurant measured 120 feet
by 50 feet and there was a large ballroom and cafe. The
hotel was so arranged that during the season the six detached
blocks could be closed down and the main building, with
its 130 bedrooms, run as a separate hotel. 'There is nothing
quite like this hotel in England', stated Mr. Rhodes, adding:
'It is rather continental in design; I believe one can see
the same sort of thing in Germany'.
Naturally, there was a wealth of promotional literature
to herald this 'modern miracle in Hotel development': a
colour postcard was produced bearing a splendid illustration
of the new building, urging recipients to 'COME SOUTH, SEE
SALTDEAN AMONG THE SOUTH DOWNS AND STAY AT THE MOST UNIQUE
HOTEL IN ENGLAND'. The terms advertised were 'Single Room
with Breakfast 7/6 (37½p) or inclusive terms from
3½ gns. (£3.67½p) weekly'; the reverse
of the card pointed out that the hotel was in the course
of construction, and that it was hoped to open the doors
to visitors on 1 July 1938, so that provisional bookings
only could be made for the time being. The promoters had
even gone so far as to establish an orchard at the end of
Saltdean Vale to provide fresh fruit in season, while vegetables
were supplied from the nursery which had been established
just off the very end of the Vale, by Looes barn."
So, that is the beginning of the existence of the Ocean
Hotel whose architect, R.W.H. Jones, who also designed Teynham
House and Curzon House, had the vision described above as
he drew up plans for the Lido and the Ocean Hotel.
I have to say that knowing the Midland's heritage, I wonder
whose vision R.W.H. Jones had drawn on, hadn't Oliver Hill
had a similar idea much earlier in the 1930s (the front
I mean). I'm also really surprised at the siting of the
Ocean - in the middle of an estate? I'm glad I did my research
or we might never have found it last weekend, I had fully
expected the hotel to be facing the sea! Although I'm trying
not to make comparisons with our beloved Midland, the Ocean
really does suffer from not having the wonderful open-air,
seafront advantages of the Midland.
The War Years - extract, courtesy of Douglas d'Enno found
on the Saltdean website.
"During the Second World War the Ocean Hotel was occupied
for a short time by the Ladies A.T.S and then taken over
by the Auxiliary Fire Service. Protection against fire was
as equally important as air-raid precautions, and a team
of five full-time fire wardens were appointed and occupied
an empty house in Westmeston Avenue. The Fire Service at
the Ocean Hotel took over the Lido as a water tank and erected
a tower in the Oval park for climbing practice and exercise
drills. The Ocean garage became an agricultural machinery
and repair shop.
The Ocean Hotel was officially opened as a fire service
college on 10th October 1941 and was a major news event
at the time. It was intended to operate for the higher training
of senior officers and instruction of junior officers and
other ranks. Herbert Morrision - at the time Home Secretary
- opened the College and he made the point that fire services
had increased tenfold and maybe even twenty-fold since the
start of the war. The number instructed at any one time
was around 200 and later in the war the college also admitted
women. It also had the facilities of a chemist, a fully
equipped laboratory and control rooms. The Ocean Hotel was
used throughout the War and it was not until 1952 that the
lease of the hotel was taken over by a subsidiary of Butlins
Ltd."
Mr d'Enno also provides us with a superb post-war picture
of what was happening in Saltdean and to the Grand Ocean
Hotel.
"Although the front page of the Peacehaven and Newhaven
Times for 24 January 1947 carried the headline 'SALTDEAN'S
OCEAN HOTEL FOR SALE', with a price tag of half a million,
the huge building remained in the hands of the N.F.S. For
several more years. It was the venue for annual general
meetings of the S.R.P.O.A., [Saltdean Residents' Associationn]
with the permission of the commandant. Rumours that it might
be used as a 'prison without bars' had been officially scotched
by the Prison Commissioners. By the time Billy Butlin purchased
the hotel (excluding the Ocean Garage complex), the price
had dropped to a quarter of a million, due to the difficulty
in finding a buyer with the means to make it a going concern.
Butlin admitted later, however,
that the Ocean had been the bargain of his life. Its doors
were opened as a holiday centre again on 2 May 1953, after
an army of workmen had spent the previous six months restoring
the near-derelict building. Over 800 specially-invited guests
visited the Ocean as part of the re-opening ceremony. A
special dedication service was performed by the Bishop of
Chichester (the Right Reverend G. K. A. Bell), who greeted
the first contingent of 'campers' early in the evening.
The new ballroom, with its sweeping view of the Channel,
was filled with celebrities of stage, screen and radio,
writers, newspapermen and councillors. Prominent civic guests
included the
Mayor of Brighton (Alderman Miss Dorothy Stringer) and the
deputy mayor of Hove (Coun. A. J. Hill Perry). Butlin's
publicity officer proudly announced: The kitchens are the
last word in modernity and we have our own bakery. There
will be big-screen television, many types of outdoor sport,
sundecks, a resident band, a roller rink and bathing and
splash pools. Except for two or three key posts, all the
staff of 200 have been recruited locally. The demand for
accommodation exceeded all expectations and enquiries for
holidays six months ahead were pouring in to the Butlin
headquarters in London. One notable booking was that of
600 Americans who wanted to stay in Saltdean during Coronation
week."
So thanks to Mr d'Enno this pretty much builds up a very
comprehensive history, much of it echoing the fate of the
Midland during the war years and subsequently later, although
the Ocean was saved from collapsing in the mid-fifties and
the Midland has had to wait for the 21st century.
Our visit to Saltdean was planned to coincide with my husband,
Andrew's birthday, but we really do visit these wonderful
monuments at the wrong time of year! (Our first visit to
the Midland was in the first weekend of December, the wind
howled and turned gale force, the waves were 30 feet high
and water ran down the walls of our suite and the breakfasting
area!) We awoke to a wonderful covering of snow - very pretty
but not auspicious for the 150+ mile journey from Nottingham!
Happily as we sped southwards, the sun emerged and dried
everywhere off - you could not have guessed at the earlier
weather conditions. The sun stayed bright all weekend although
it was very very cold.
We entered Brighton and headed in the direction of the
pier to find the coast road to Saltdean. We went passed
what we thought was the Pavilion (confirmed the following
day, we only saw part of it from the main thoroughfare)
and turned left onto the coast road passed the famous pier.
(We visited the wreck of the West pier on the way home on
Sunday). There were no signposts and we went through Rottingdean
and saw Roedean (looking more like Hogwarts than St. Trinians)
and finally entered Saltdean. The cliffs are phenomenal
but where was the hotel? - I spotted it as I knew to look
upwards and there it was like a sprawling shanty-town in
the middle of an estate. I recognised it from the postcard
views I had seen on ebay. We turned left up the hill and
then had to turn very sharply into the hotel entrance. It
was astonishing, the Midland was standing in front of us!
The only immediate differences were : the strange and tight
entrance, the front garden (which is very prettily landscaped),
the fact that it was surrounded by an estate and the lovely
little porch on the entrance. Then we went inside
..
the staircase was on the wrong side and there was no lovely
little portico - but it was a myriad of purple and pink
and so I was immediately in my element. The carpet has an
art deco design (whether copied from the original or designed
to suit the deco décor I do not know) which runs
throughout the hotel. The reception area is very efficient
and modern with 3 computer terminals prominently displayed,
but all the signs Reception, Premier, Lifts are in deco
style. As Premier guests we had a room (booked with a sea
view) on the third floor (one more than the Midland) and
were two rooms away to the right of the tower (no sea view)
overlooking the front. (I found out on my return that there
used to be a roof garden - I wish I had had the time to
explore that further if I had but known!). The room was
a double and broiling hot (only one setting on the heating)
so despite the cold outside, we immediately opened the windows.
We later found out to our cost, that the fridge (not the
freezer) also had one setting as our water bottles were
frozen when we took them out for the journey home! The room
was clean and pretty, en suite and no telephone (there is
a public phone downstairs for the use of guests).
The lift that took us up to the 3rd floor was unspectacular
and as we exited to find our room we entered a wide open
space which led to the stairwell, so you get a spectacular
view down the stairwell and the landscaped garden is visible
through the tower.
We then recced the joint
. every inch of space is
used for entertainment or rented for shop space including
amenities such as hairdressers. In the basement we found
the tunnels leading to the Mariner annexes - these are rooms
built on to the back creating the shanty-town effect. Down
there are also amusement arcades and a large entertainment
area and a couple of bars. It is also the way to the swimming
pool which is now an indoor pool - well the Lido (beautifully
preserved) is further down the hill.
On the ground floor are two eating areas - we were directed
to the far restaurant which is for the Premier guests. The
passage/corridor walls are all decorated with framed pictures
or posters of the 30s and the restaurant has murals in the
style of and direct copies of Tamara de Lempicka (her Girl
in a Motor Car is faithfully reproduced). The door leading
out of the restaurant is another faithful reproduction of
the lift doors in the Empire State Building.
Breakfast and dinner (although we did not know this) are
included in the price. On the 2nd night, having spent all
day in Brighton in The Lanes, we were too tired to contemplate
going out again so tried our luck in the restaurant. Starters
and Sweet are served at table, any wine bought is paid for
there and then and the main meal (like breakfast) is served
from the hatch. All in all an amusing experience!
We are glad we experienced this hotel and recommend you
to try it if you are down Brighton way - but don't be surprised
at anything that happens - go purely to soak in the atmosphere
and see this "twin" as a thriving business.
I long for the day the Midland is up and running so that
we can go and stay there again - but I pray it will not
be run on the lines of the Ocean!
It's amazing what you can find out when you are researching
something :
When searching ebay for information I made contact with
one seller in the United States who had a particularly fantastic
card of the Midland. He sent me an e-mail asking where it
was? I directed him to the Midland website as well as telling
him what I knew. He responded by saying that it was so interesting
he had sent the website to several friends and wished us
well and hoped the Midland would be saved.
A Midland Hotel luggage label (original) was sold for US
$242.51 - I did bid and was prepared to go up to $75 for
the privilege - I decided to download the webpage instead!
My friend and colleague at work, Yvonne, has a sister and
brother-in-law who live near Morecambe and who like many
others are interested in the fate of the Midland. They didn't
know about the existence of the Ocean until I started bombarding
Yvonne with all my findings.
On the Saltdean webpage, residents of Saltdean record their
shock at watching a television programme and discovering
"their" hotel being placed in Morecambe - until
they realised it wasn't the Ocean! (Do have a look at the
way they wrote up their experience, their description of
their shock is wonderfully touching.)
Our weekend was nearly ruined, having booked everything
stealthily via the Internet on Sunday, on Monday when I
was at work, Andrew took a call from the booking agents
surprise over!
Please have a look at the virtual tour of the Ocean Hotel
(and look out for the seahorses in the lobby - yes, I know,
seahorses!) http://www.infotel.co.uk/14031.htm
Enough's enough, I have downloaded this article in its
entirety and hundreds of pictures (well maybe not hundreds)
onto a floppy disk which I am sending to Barry - anyone
wishing to copy any of the images is more than welcome.
Thanks for reading this and do visit the Ocean if you get
the chance - we certainly found it an unforgettable experience!
Does anyone have a copy of "The Saltdean Story"
by Douglas d'Enno or Alan Powers "Oliver Hill, architect
& lover of life : 1887 -1968" please? I'm on the
lookout for both with a view to purchasing.
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